Labels: finishing process
Application
Sewn All woven labels and most printed labels are sewn with a sewing machine onto a garment or other product. As a rule, there should be a 1/16" to 3/16" sew space allowance on the edge(s) of the label, but this allowance varies depending on the cut of the label.
ADHESIVE Printed labels only can be applied flat on a garment or other product using an adhesive backing that is either activated through heat transfer or features a self-adhesive sticker back. Once the protective paper is peeled off, the label is ready for application. In both these processes, the label must be finished as a "cut & seal" label with no folds.
Woven Label Finishing Options
FOLDING Woven labels can be finished in a variety of cuts and folds, determined by where they are being attached on the garment and the styling desired. Most of these folds can also be applied to printed labels.
END FOLD When the left and right sides of the label are folded back (tucked under). The label is then sewn onto the garment at the folds, providing an attractive folded edge. This is one of the most popular folds, appearing on countless garments. When it's the top and bottom that are folded back, the label is called a Top & Bottom Fold.
CENTERFOLD Also known as a Loop Label, because the label is folded in half and then the two cut ends are both sewn together into the garment, often at the neckline or waistband. The Centerfold is ideal for care/content labels, because in effect it creates a two-sided label with ample room for text. Many garments will feature the brand identity on the front and the care/content information on the back.
CUT & SEAL This label is cut straight on all four sides, with no folds. This the best choice when the label will be sewn on all four sides, including outside pocket patches but also inside the neck or waist of many tops and bottoms. Mitre Fold
MITRE FOLD Both ends of this label are folded up diagonally, then sewn into the garment, usually at the neckline of tops. It creates a loose "loop" associated with hanging on closet hooks.
DIE CUT Die cutting allows the creation of almost any shape imaginable, and is the right choice for any label that's not square or rectangular. The process is more expensive than other options, because each label is cut by hand. A label can even feature a die cut "window" to create a "see-through" effect.
CONTINUOUS Also known as Woven Tape, this is the correct specification when you need flexibility at your sewing facility, with the choice of cutting on-site for individual labels or running a continuous "tape" down the side of a pant leg.
CUTTING Special cutting methods have been developed to avoid the scratchy feeling that the consumer may feel when a label rubs against his or her skin.
HOT KNIFE By far the most common method, the woven label is cut with a heated blade, which melts the polyester fibers at the edge, reducing rough residue that might be scratchy.
ULTRA-SONIC Slower and more expensive than Hot Knife, the Ultra-Sonic cut uses high-frequency sound-wave technology, achieving a supremely smooth edge.
STARCHING Many of our customers request their labels be starched to help make the label more rigid and easier to handle in the sewing facility. This is particularly helpful for smaller labels, and washes out after the first wash by the consumer, with no permanent effect on the label.
FILLED WOVEN LABELS Woven labels can be stuffed with yarn and heat-sealed to create a "puffed" effect, ideal for zipper pulls or special effects on garments.
Printed Label Finishing Options
FOLDING Printed labels can be cut and folded much like woven labels. Folds include End Fold, Centerfold, Cut & Seal and Mitre Fold. Almost all printed labels are square or rectangular. If you need a non-standard die cut shape, a woven label is the better choice.
CUTTING Printed labels created on fabric can be cut like woven labels using Hot Knife or Ultra-Sonic cutting Printed labels created on TyvekŪ or other synthetic materials are usually chop-cut, adding to their affordability.
